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Partly I imagine because of the insane bureaucratic nightmares which assail any visitor to Zaire but also because the park is three days' overland journey from Bunia the nearest airport so only the most determined visitors actually make it. We were lucky. The Senior Management Adviser on the Garamba Rehabilitation Project Charles Mackie came to pick us up from Bunia in an anti-poaching patrol Cessna 185. The runway on which we landed just outside the boundaries of the park was merely a flattened piece of grass along which we bounded and hopped before finally slewing to halt. It was a dramatic change from the cold mistiness of the Virunga volcanoes - grassland as far as the horizon in every direction hot dry air a Landrover bounding along dusty roads through the savannah and elephants heaving themselves along in the hazy distance. That evening we went to have a meal at the house.
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